#Audi map update via sd card upgrade#

ItвЂ™s only the third to last thing keeping that drive down. YouвЂ™ll want to apply some light leverage with a small flatвЂђhead screwdriver between the screw and the pin and push that pin inward and away from the hard drive chassis. Where the green arrow points in his picture above, thereвЂ™s a little metal вЂњpinвЂќ that is sticking out and holding the hard drive chassis down. Be mindful of the optical drive, if still attached. YouвЂ™ll need to tilt the head unit up from the rear and unscrew them from the bottom of the chassis. Just remove the three screws (circled in yellow) that are holding the hard driveвЂ™s chassis down. I did not remove the DVD cable (left) or that aluminum ribbon (right) as I didnвЂ™t find either to be in the way. ThatвЂ™s the optical drive youвЂ™re looking at and itвЂ™s not secured at all (as it was held in place by some of the screws that also held the cover in place), so, be careful! ThereвЂ™s a ribbon cable attached to it so gently pick it up and flip it over in front of the head unit (where the plastic dash trim is). By now you should be looking at the insides of the head unit: Just rock the blade side to side to pop the cover, as if opening a can of paint. Only insert a millimeter or two as to not damage any of the electronics inside. You can insert a small flat screwdriver in the areas highlighted in light blue. Use your fingers to pry open the front of the cover and work your way back, toward those flaps. I tried to get crafty and avoid breaking it but it wasnвЂ™t worth bending the metal flaps in the back. Notice the darker red circle where the screw has a little neighbor thatвЂ™s some sort of a pin that worried me at first it may just be some sort of reset mechanism but it ended up being inconsequential). Remove the six screws circled in red with the T8 sixвЂђpoint bit. When reвЂђinserting, remember to fully extend the carrier, connect with the head unit, and then swivel it down for it to вЂњlockвЂќ into place. The release is on the bottom of the square and as you lift it up, it comes out of the head unit. TheyвЂ™re held together in a carrier that swivels out. Now, the really large multiвЂђpurpose cable is like a lego construction of four different connectors, all in one. So, look for that small latch before you start pulling.

Pulling too hard on the first cable I described (with the plastic sleeves) can cause the corrugated plastic to pop off even though the connector is firmly in place. DonвЂ™t pull hard on any of them as it means youвЂ™re doing something wrong. YouвЂ™ll need nails, too (so, nailвЂђbiters need not attempt this). Take your time, each is slightly different. The ones shown in this graphic are (from right to left): a fiberвЂђoptic (caution: laser!) in/out cable with corrugated plastic sleeves (important), a multiвЂђcable/purpose вЂњcarrierвЂќ connector, a yellow and green fourвЂђprong cable, and the XM/radio antenna. YouвЂ™ll want to get those disconnected first. Not shown in this picture are any cables attached to the trim just below the radio key slits (Audi Drive Select, Stability/Traction Control On/Off, Hill Descent Control, etc). Pull on the keys and the head unit will just pop out (at this point itвЂ™s mostly held in place with friction from the surrounding dash trim).ДЄs you pull the head unit out, there will be a slew of cables still attached to it: The notches on the radio keys will need to face inward (each other) and youвЂ™ll know you inserted them correctly as theyвЂ™ll вЂњclickвЂќ (youвЂ™ll feel springs being loaded). Insert the radio keys into the slits circled in red:

#Audi map update via sd card upgrade#

(or any HDD of your choice for that matter in fact, unless you can find a PowerSafe IDE SSD, you really should just upgrade to a larger automotive grade HDD)ДЎ) Radio removal keys I went with the XtenziвЂђbranded DoubleвЂђDIN keys for Audi/VW/Merc:, about $10Дў) An IDE SSD or HDD of your choice I went with a 64GB Transcend PSD330 2.5вЂђinch IDE Internal SSD Solid State Disk (MLC Flash) but had major instability issues with it I ended up switching to a bigger version of our drive, the MK8050GAC and then its 5400RPM Seagate version, the ST980818AM please be very careful where you buy either one, there are a lot of scammers out thereДЈ) USBвЂђtoвЂђIDE connection cables (having two on hand allows for direct drive copying) I went with вЂњSabrent USB 2.0 TO SATA/IDE 2.5/3.5/вЂђINCH Hard Drive Converter With Power Supply & LED Activity LightsвЂќ:, about $15 eachД¤) A T8 sixвЂђpoint bit (and driver) to remove all the screwsДҐ) VMWare Player, to run the QNX RearвЂђTime OS (free download): for OSX, youвЂ™ll need Fusion and you can get going with just the trial periodД¦) QNX 6.5.0 SP 1 вЂњNeutrinoвЂќ Runtime environment (you donвЂ™t need the entire SDP free download): (I realize QNX may have taken this down either search the web or contact me for a copy)ДЇirst, remove the radio from the dash.